THE LOW DOWN
Sequestered in a quiet road off the main strip of shops and restaurants in Primrose Hill is a restaurant you should know about. Manna serves vegan (yes, vegan) food. But disbelievers, don’t be disheartened; don’t labour under the blinkers of prejudice or opinion: Manna is the self-proclaimed finest and oldest vegetarian dining house in Europe. It’s a bold claim - but one that I’m inclined to believe, having searched the continent pretty extensively (and often in vain) for truly great veggie dining experiences. Our small nation probably has more to offer to anyone following a meat-free diet than any of its near neighbours. And among the many vegetarian restaurants I've had the good fortune to visit in the UK, Manna is very much the best.
The thing is, to have a passion for food is not about adopting an 'I’ll eat anything that moves’ mantra. Eating 'gator steaks or wombat chowder once a week does not a premier gastronome make. The team behind Manna understand that. And as a result, they go further than anyone in reducing the cavernous conceptual divide between ‘foodie’ and ‘veggie’. And they're no hippy commune cafe, if that's what you're thinking (much as I love those).
Manna offers something more elegant and grown-up, even compared to well-loved meat-free restaurants like Mildred’s of Soho and Saf of Shoreditch. The latter pair replace the stereotypical veggie restaurant's boho decor with sleek contemporary design. Manna, on the other hand, does fine dining, pure and simple. The interior even resembles that of neighbouring restaurant Odette’s with its prohibition-era period feel and low lighting. It's immediately inviting and cosy… but not too cosy. There remains an entirely pleasing air of sophistication.
Talking to owner Robin Swallow, it's brought to my attention that Manna has been in existence for over 40 years! A surprising and worthy achievement and one that sets a happy precedent for other businesses in the area seeking to do something a little different and a little daring.
“We’re a real local landmark," Robin tells me. “We’ve owned the restaurant since 1995, but its reputation has been here since the ‘60s.” Such longevity must stem at least in part from the thriving counter-cultural and liberal literary community for which the local area is famous. Certainly the full house of diners on my visit seem relaxed, familiar and - not to put too fine a point on it - like genuine fans of the restaurant. Robin agrees: “We get a lot of repeat custom. The locals have fun, they know the staff… this is a great place to work. The whole place is a labour of love.” It would seem that this is where the cool cats on a health-kick come, and possibly the yoga crowd that frequent the nearby Triyoga Health Centre.
Although labelled a vegetarian restaurant, Manna actually takes things one step further and serves only vegan food. “It was easier to be one thing,” reasons Robin. "Not having to cater for the two and prepare things separately [is more efficient]... and it makes no difference really. We are still about the same thing: fresh, seasonal ingredients and exciting dishes that are in no way compromised.” The menu is definitely a sight for sore eyes, tickling the tastebuds while ticking every ethical box too. The dishes are delicious, diverse and exhibit a real connoisseur's approach to ingredients and flavours. They're also socially and ethically responsible, of course.
“Vegan is the new vegetarian,” Robin lets on with a smile. “There’s such a big movement. You don’t have to actually be a vegetarian or vegan, but why not come and experience some of Manna’s cuisine in Primrose Hill – everybody wants to come to Primrose Hill!” I couldn't agree more. My dining partner and I have come on a lovely Friday evening, and the after-work crowds are drinking al fresco along the strip. The whole area is abuzz, which only adds to the light, lovely kick of our bottle of (organic, vegan) wine.
THE FOOD
We munch on as the twilight dims outside, both feeling rather smug at sampling such wonderful flavours while stocking up on our vitamins. It's like ingesting pure health – I had Indonesian Satay for starters- baked marinated tofu skewers served with raw salad and topped with a nest of crisp rice noodles - Polenta Galette as my main - polenta cake, grilled courgette and basil cashew cheese galette served with a cherry tomato and roasted red pepper sauce and a carrot and fennel salad. I indulged in a beautifully tasty apple and blueberry crumble for dessert. My partner tried a butternut squash and sweet potato soup, penne pasta with field mushrooms, courgettes and garden peas as a main with an apple, carmelized pecan and cranberry puff pastry (served with a calvados caramel sauce) to finish.
The cashew cheese is one among many revelations – they ought to put this stuff in pots and sell it. My one criticism would be that the ice-cream did not achieve the full-on creaminess of normal, full-fat ice-cream. But hey, you can’t have it all. The truth is, all the food was top-notch and there was none of the feeling of over-sated heaviness at the end of the meal. So many restaurant trips can leave you wanting to crawl home to bed nursing your bursting belly. At Manna, a sense of balance and moderation prevails, and we left pleasantly full and fuelled up for a night on the tiles. We also felt like we’d done a little bit of good for the environment and our fellow man, having consumed only Fair Trade and in-season products. (One of Manna’s suppliers even forages for foods or herbs naturally occurring in the wild, rather than growing them!)
All told, Manna is a luxe restaurant that just happens to serve appetising, healthy and tremendously high-quality food. Being a bit different, it’s the perfect venue for birthday and private parties; the ambiance is even conducive to a romantic meal. And of course, the leafy residential streets of Primrose Hill make for an idyllic after-dinner stroll. I’m somewhat jealous Manna is not my local... but I’ll be back soon. It is, after all, the finest vegetarian restaurant in Europe. No argument from me on that score.
Manna, 4 Erskine Road, Primrose Hill, London NW3 3AJ 020 7722 8028, mannav.com
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