The Cupcake Craze

Helen Baron delves into the colourful world of cupcakes and finds out how Primrose Hill Cakery ‘Sweet Things’ came to be...

Cupcakes are all the rage. En vogue for the last few years, cute as anything, kitsch but still chic, they combine all the most fun parts of femininity – a touch of Marie Antoinette here, a dash of Alice in Wonderland there – into one bright, bitesized package. No doubt sparked by the starring role played by New York’s Magnolia’s Bakery in Sex and the City, cupcakes quickly became as cool as Carrie Bradshaw’s couture.


But the end of the show itself did not slow the ascent of the mighty cupcake, and in Britain what was once a simple, rather plain teatime treat has become a national obsession – and a surprisingly steadfast seller even during the recession. Cupcake businesses, often run by mums turning their expertise into acumen, are doing a roaring trade, and we the masses seem unable to stop ourselves partaking. Why should we? At a couple of pounds a pop, the confections are a cheaper luxury than new shoes or a designer handbag (and elicit just as many coos of delight when given as a gift). Cupcake cafes have cashed in on our desire for elevenses, afternoon tea and the occasional coffee pit-stop, while adding a healthy dose of whimsy and nostalgia to the mix. Cupcakes make us think back to halcyon childhoods, cosy afternoons spent baking with mum – and they are the perfect way to interest our own little ones in cookery. In 1950s America, a tray of cupcakes was often taken into school on a child’s birthday; a tradition slowly being revived in pockets of the UK today – not least in Primrose Hill.

Boasting customers such as Dominic Cooper, Emma Thompson and Sophie Dahl, Sweet Things has become a neighbourhood favourite in Primrose Hill.

Natalie Allen, who started the company, moved to London from Cheshire 15 years ago and – frankly – was disappointed with the capital’s cakes. She missed home baking, goodies the way grandma used to make them: “Even now, I can’t eat Starbucks or Costa cake or anything like that. Back then I just thought, where is there to go for a cup of tea and a decent cake that’s not mass produced?”

Allen always knew she’d be involved with food somehow, having grown up in a family of keen bakers. A project manager in the city, she would spend her spare time making cakes and desserts for friends’ parties, and the success of her efforts quickly turned her thoughts to the idea of making her hobby into something more permanent. Fortunately, her husband advised her to chase her dream; she never looked back.

After completing a cookery course at the Cordon Bleu, Allen began to bake from home and sell her wares at luxury food markets, as well as baking for private customers and taking samples to small, independent shops and delis. The response was enthusiastic, and her business began to grow and grow. Soon she was stocking The Bread Stall on Clapham’s Northcote Road – prime cupcake territory, with almost more Bugaboos than people. The bakery was soon ordering up to a thousand cupcakes a week. But it was the renowned West End department store Selfridges that was Allen’s ultimate customer. She had her heart set on supplying them, pursuing the store’s food hall buyer doggedly. She knew that the amount of pitches Selfridges received daily from similar companies must number in the hundreds, but an initial rejection didn’t faze her. She knew the problem must lie with the sheer number of applications the shop faced, rather than with the taste of her cakes, so she sent samples to the buyer and to the food hall’s counter staff. Her persistence paid off – less than a day later the call came, with Selfridges requesting a supply of her cupcakes to the store’s London, Birmingham and Manchester branches. From that moment, everything changed. Bigger and suitably equipped premises beckoned, and Allen moved her business to Primrose Hill. A little later, she was approached by Fortnum and Mason too. “It’s a real achievement because there, we’ve beaten a lot of other companies to be one of maybe five similar products on the shelf – Fortnum and Mason is all about high quality food.”
But what, I ask her, accounts for the cupcake craze of recent years?
“I think the answer is two-fold. People are attracted to the variety of flavours and colours, and I think they don’t quite feel like they’re eating a whole slice of cake!” And was Allen, like so many others, inspired by Sex and the City’s very own Magnolia Bakery?  She laughs: “Totally – I visited it again recently on a trip to New York and the queues went around the corner.” She confesses though that the cakes were not up to scratch. “A lot of unnecessary decoration but lacking in substance.” How does she feel, I wonder, about the upsurge in competition? “If you’re good, you’ll stand out,” she replies, with complete confidence. “We have a 95% repeat custom rate so people are easily converted. There are some people who will always buy their cake from, say, Marks and Spencer, but if you’re after the best ingredients, if you want the most out of your cake, then you’ll probably want to come to us.”

To further illustrate her point, she tells me a story from last year. During a spell when London had all but shutdown due to extreme winter weather, the business had cakes waiting to go out to clients – including one who was getting married that day. Faced with delays caused by stranded delivery vans, another Sweet Things regular who happened to be in the shop at the time offered to drive the wedding cake to its destination, helping to avoid a wedding day disaster. A touching anecdote and one that shows the kind of devotion Sweet Things customers feel not just to the shop itself, but to their fellow cake-fans!


Now, of course, business is booming, though Allen believes she has benefited from her timing – it would be harder, she says, to set up in today’s tumultuous economy. “The cost of ingredients is now so high… it’s actually quadrupled. If you are a large company you can negotiate fixed rates, and we now have some leverage, but smaller companies are priced out.” Allen must feel relieved that she capitalised on her idea when she did. But there’s little time for wondering how different things might have been, and as I leave she is about to don a hair net and oversee the development of a new product for Easter – a time of year for which her enthusiasm and excitement are obvious. “Last year we made cupcakes that looked like Easter Eggs!” she coos. Sweet Things indeed.

Cupcake Facts
Vogue magazine claimed that owning a cupcake bakery is the career fantasy of our times.
Google has pronounced the cupcake the fastest-rising recipe search in the UK
One cupcake fan page on Facebook has more than 250,000 members

It’s all about, Good Manna

Can healthy, nutritious food can also be gourmet? Taste Bud = J

THE LOW DOWN
Sequestered in a quiet road off the main strip of shops and restaurants in Primrose Hill is a restaurant you should know about. Manna serves vegan (yes, vegan) food. But disbelievers, don’t be disheartened; don’t labour under the blinkers of prejudice or opinion: Manna is the self-proclaimed finest and oldest vegetarian dining house in Europe. It’s a bold claim - but one that I’m inclined to believe, having searched the continent pretty extensively (and often in vain) for truly great veggie dining experiences. Our small nation probably has more to offer to anyone following a meat-free diet than any of its near neighbours. And among the many vegetarian restaurants I've had the good fortune to visit in the UK, Manna is very much the best.
 
The thing is, to have a passion for food is not about adopting an 'I’ll eat anything that moves’ mantra. Eating 'gator steaks or wombat chowder once a week does not a premier gastronome make. The team behind Manna understand that. And as a result, they go further than anyone in reducing the cavernous conceptual divide between ‘foodie’ and ‘veggie’. And they're no hippy commune cafe, if that's what you're thinking (much as I love those).
Manna offers something more elegant and grown-up, even compared to well-loved meat-free restaurants like Mildred’s of Soho and Saf of Shoreditch. The latter pair replace the stereotypical veggie restaurant's boho decor with sleek contemporary design. Manna, on the other hand, does fine dining, pure and simple. The interior even resembles that of neighbouring restaurant Odette’s with its prohibition-era period feel and low lighting. It's immediately inviting and cosy… but not too cosy. There remains an entirely pleasing air of sophistication. 
 
Talking to owner Robin Swallow, it's brought to my attention that Manna has been in existence for over 40 years! A surprising and worthy achievement and one that sets a happy precedent for other businesses in the area seeking to do something a little different and a little daring.
“We’re a real local landmark," Robin tells me. “We’ve owned the restaurant since 1995, but its reputation has been here since the ‘60s.” Such longevity must stem at least in part from the thriving counter-cultural and liberal literary community for which the local area is famous. Certainly the full house of diners on my visit seem relaxed, familiar and - not to put too fine a point on it - like genuine fans of the restaurant. Robin agrees: “We get a lot of repeat custom. The locals have fun, they know the staff… this is a great place to work. The whole place is a labour of love.” It would seem that this is where the cool cats on a health-kick come, and possibly the yoga crowd that frequent the nearby Triyoga Health Centre.
 
Although labelled a vegetarian restaurant, Manna actually takes things one step further and serves only vegan food. “It was easier to be one thing,” reasons Robin. "Not having to cater for the two and prepare things separately [is more efficient]... and it makes no difference really. We are still about the same thing: fresh, seasonal ingredients and exciting dishes that are in no way compromised.” The menu is definitely a sight for sore eyes, tickling the tastebuds while ticking every ethical box too. The dishes are delicious, diverse and exhibit a real connoisseur's approach to ingredients and flavours. They're also socially and ethically responsible, of course.
“Vegan is the new vegetarian,” Robin lets on with a smile. “There’s such a big movement. You don’t have to actually be a vegetarian or vegan, but why not come and experience some of Manna’s cuisine in Primrose Hill – everybody wants to come to Primrose Hill!” I couldn't agree more. My dining partner and I have come on a lovely Friday evening, and the after-work crowds are drinking al fresco along the strip. The whole area is abuzz, which only adds to the light, lovely kick of our bottle of (organic, vegan) wine. 


THE FOOD
 
We munch on as the twilight dims outside, both feeling rather smug at sampling such wonderful flavours while stocking up on our vitamins. It's like ingesting pure health – I had Indonesian Satay for starters- baked marinated tofu skewers served with raw salad and topped with a nest of crisp rice noodles - Polenta Galette as my main - polenta cake, grilled courgette and basil cashew cheese galette served with a cherry tomato and roasted red pepper sauce and a carrot and fennel salad. I indulged in a beautifully tasty apple and blueberry crumble for dessert. My partner tried a butternut squash and sweet potato soup, penne pasta with field mushrooms, courgettes and garden peas as a main with an apple, carmelized pecan and cranberry puff pastry (served with a calvados caramel sauce) to finish.
The cashew cheese is one among many revelations – they ought to put this stuff in pots and sell it. My one criticism would be that the ice-cream did not achieve the full-on creaminess of normal, full-fat ice-cream. But hey, you can’t have it all. The truth is, all the food was top-notch and there was none of the feeling of over-sated heaviness at the end of the meal. So many restaurant trips can leave you wanting to crawl home to bed nursing your bursting belly. At Manna, a sense of balance and moderation prevails, and we left pleasantly full and fuelled up for a night on the tiles. We also felt like we’d done a little bit of good for the environment and our fellow man, having consumed only Fair Trade and in-season products. (One of Manna’s suppliers even forages for foods or herbs naturally occurring in the wild, rather than growing them!)
 
All told, Manna is a luxe restaurant that just happens to serve appetising, healthy and tremendously high-quality food. Being a bit different, it’s the perfect venue for birthday and private parties; the ambiance is even conducive to a romantic meal. And of course, the leafy residential streets of Primrose Hill make for an idyllic after-dinner stroll. I’m somewhat jealous Manna is not my local... but I’ll be back soon. It is, after all, the finest vegetarian restaurant in Europe. No argument from me on that score.
Manna, 4 Erskine Road, Primrose Hill, London NW3 3AJ
020 7722 8028, mannav.com

Onto a Good Thing

The Duke of Cambridge




London’s first ever ‘officially organic’ pub...Tastebud = Gareth

The Duke of Cambridge scored major brownie points with me before I’d even crossed the threshold (though it’s only fair to say I didn’t try the brownies; I’m sure they’d have fared extremely well). The reason for such advance admiration? Well, The Duke of Cambridge is not quite your average pub. In fact, this relative newcomer to the Islington drinking-and-dining scene is the first and only certifiably organic pub in London. An astonishing fact, when you consider the sheer amount of air-time given to buzzwords like ‘organic’ these days; and – as someone interested in environmental issues and a supporter of various eco initiatives – enough to get me very excited indeed.

The pub’s modus operandi is to serve only sustainable, seasonal, locally produced food, and to uphold a ‘sustainable fishing’ policy. The menu focuses on predominantly British fare and incorporates Mediterranean influences – but that doesn’t mean your greens come complete with their own colossal carbon footprint: The Duke of Cambridge sources 80% of all its fresh ingredients from the home counties. Moreover, all their ingredients are certified organic by the Soil Association – and their provenance is traceable as a result. Menus change twice daily, according to what’s at peak freshness and therefore most flavoursome, and all the food is made on-site, including breads, pickles and ice-creams.

But here’s where they’re onto a real winner in my opinion: there are always two meat, two fish and two vegetarian main courses on the menu. Traditional restaurateurs take heed: this is the way of the future, so don’t remain stuck in the past! As a long-term vegetarian who has recently started eating fish again – largely due to the sheer lack of variety in vegetarian cooking when out and about – I’m thrilled to see this ‘equal opportunities’ attitude to menu design. Never again need I pay for a full Sunday roast while receiving just a parched plate of veg and (if I’m lucky) a Yorkshire pudding; and I don’t have to accept the seemingly obligatory (bland) mushroom risotto while my carnivorous companions take their pick from dozens of possible platters. Instead I can hop down to The Duke of Cambridge and choose something carefully tailored to my tastes. Just because I’m a pescatarian, doesn’t mean I’m not a dedicated foodie, and with the arrival of The Duke of Cambridge, I’m beginning to hope my tomato pasta days are over!

The Concept

Geetie Singh founded Sloeberry Trading in order to open and run The Duke of Cambridge. Having already gained extensive experience in the restaurant trade and wanting to do something about the appalling amount of wastefulness she’d witnessed, Geetie was determined to put her interest in social justice and her passion for nature to good use. Starting an environmentally friendly business seemed a great way to do so, and The Duke of Cambridge was the perfect way to support organic farming, sustainable living and healthy eating – but it was equally important to Geetie that her pub deliver top quality food to diners.

As a result, the chefs at the pub (bless ‘em) buy goods direct from small independent farms. They also ensure that no food is wasted and source as much Fair Trade produce as possible – tea, sugar, coffee and chocolate comes from small producers who are paid a fair and decent premium for their crops. The chefs also adhere to a strict fish-buying policy (Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall would be proud) and try to avoid packaged, processed foods – for this reason, you won’t see the usual crisps behind the bar, though you can happily munch your way through delicious olives and nuts.

Geetie, who had lived in a commune in the Midlands, says the idea for The Duke of Cambridge came about because she had grown “deeply disillusioned with the lack of sustainability in restaurants”. She clearly doesn’t do things by halves, refusing to be branded as “just an environmentalist” or “just a restaurateur”: she is both in equal measure, and certainly her employment of radical methods (as far as the restaurant business is concerned) proves her to be a shining example of both ethical activist and savvy businesswoman. One visit to The Duke of Cambridge makes it plain: the pub really goes that extra mile, proudly recycling and reusing building materials, furniture and kitchen waste while keeping a vigilant eye on energy use. In addition, it fosters links with local residents, training cooks at nearby schools as well as staff for a forthcoming community kitchen (Jamie Oliver would be proud – or jealous!)

And as if all that was not enough, Geetie insists on advocating certification policies, making the point that catering companies are legally exempt and able to regulate themselves, thus compromising the integrity of the organic movement. The Duke of Cambridge is certified organic despite not needing to be so. That kind of commitment to a better future is a rare thing indeed.

The Taste Test

So the eco-conscious ethos is undeniably admirable… but would the food live up to all the good intentions? Well, the dining experience certainly started well: the pub has a friendly, buzzy atmosphere and stylish agrarian-inspired décor. Happily, the pastoral goodness and human touch extended to the food.

I started with Alham Woods English mozzarella with mushroom, sundried tomato and walnut pesto; continued with a main course of potato, cauliflower, tomato, spinach and lentil curry (accompanied by a chilli gherkin salad), and ended with chocolate and almond cake with crème fraiche. My dining partner, who chose a starter of pan-fried scallops and cauliflower purée; a main of three-cheese soufflé in a white wine sauce and beetroot salad, and a lemon pot with crème fraiche and prunes for dessert, summed the experience up neatly when he said that the most impressive thing about the food was how perfectly it combined the wholesome and the refined – an achievement rarely seen in top restaurants, let alone a local organic pub. His stand-out flavours were the soufflé and beetroot. Mine were the mozzarella (creamy beyond belief!) and the garnishes – the tomatoes tasted as if they’d been plucked from the vine just moments before; the chillis and gherkins divulged a freshness that seemed to burst out into the mouth. It was as if these time-honoured and familiar ingredients were suddenly made new to us – and that shows genius at work.

If The Duke of Cambridge was conceived to show that a better future is possible without scrimping on pleasure or quality along the way, then Geetie Singh can give herself a pat on the back: mission well and truly accomplished.

What makes it organic?

Organic farming works in harmony with the land, without the use of chemicals, respecting the environment and its animals, developing fertile soil and nurturing insect and animal life to naturally deter crop pests. Crops are rotated to maintain healthy soil and animals are reared without the routine use of antibiotics and according to a high standard of animal welfare – as certified by the Soil Association.


The Duke Of Cambridge
30 St Peter's Street
Islington, London N1 8JT
020 7359 3066
www.dukeorganic.co.uk/