The Wells, Hampstead

Food Spotlight, with Damaris as my Tastebud.

The road well travelled
Helen Baron samples the menu in arguably the best gastro-pub in Hampstead

                                  
The road outside The Wells Tavern is startlingly quaint. Making my way down Flask Walk, passing picture-book houses, I’m put in mind of the Peter Pan stories – this stretch of road seems to possess far more of the cosy Edwardian elegance I remember from J.M. Barrie’s tales than does the modern-day Kensington Gardens (home to the Darling family in the books).
I’m visiting on a crisp, wintry evening, and the location – just a short walk from Hampstead tube – is magical. It’s as if you’ve stumbled into a scene from Lilliput Lane, complete with red telephone boxes, cobbled streets and charming cottages painted cheerful colours. At the end of this perfect little vista, windows glowing merrily, stands the beautiful Georgian building that houses The Wells. First impressions count when it comes to pubs, but The Wells has nothing to worry about on that score. From the outside, this is the tavern of dreams: I’d like to own a miniature version of the place myself.
What with the classic feel of the exterior, you’d be forgiven for thinking The Wells was a time-honoured Hampstead establishment, watering passers-by, residents and famous writers in style for a century or two. But you’d be mistaken, because owner Beth Coventry only renovated the building in 2003 – before that it was the kind of place you might pop into only to walk straight back out again. Coventry’s vision has wrought marvellous consequences, peeling back the building’s dilapidated surface layers to reveal the finest of Georgian proportions underneath. Situated a mere stone’s throw from the Heath itself, The Wells now mixes civilised sophistication with a touch of something old, wild and incredibly romantic – you can almost imagine a holidaying Heathcliff making a pit-stop here before battling across the Heath in search of Cathy’s ghost. The idyllic location and ‘local landmark’ status make it a real surprise that the building’s potential wasn’t realised sooner – but local residents have wasted no time in flocking to the pub since it opened. Its broad terraces and beautiful hanging-baskets must prove a huge summer draw – while the cosy fireside feel on the night of my visit has lured more than a few folk in for a warming twilight tipple.
As a great many tarted-up boozers have found to their cost, however, looks will only get you so far. Can The Wells match its fine façade with the kind of nosh that will keep the customers coming? Serving up an assortment of modern European cuisine, The Wells seeks to straddle both sides of the gastro divide, offering guests the opportunity to chow down either in the ground floor bar or – for those after a more ‘high end’ experience – one of three first floor dining rooms, each elegantly decked out in a style best described as ‘contemporary period’. On our visit the food is up to scratch with exciting combinations on offer - Gorgonzola, red wine poached pear and walnut salad and seared scallops, pan-fried fillet of bream, fennel puree, salsa verde and tomato coulis as well as rump of lamb with dauphinoise potato and the perfect selection of vegetables - broad beans, peas and butterd baby carrots with rosemary jus. Whether you’re after fine dining for two in a suitably classy setting or a comfy Sunday roast down the pub with your pals, it’s hard to imagine a more dependably satisfying destination than The Wells.
When I catch up with owner Beth for a quick chat, her busy schedule proves the best testament to her success as a landlady – business is booming, it seems. “The Wells is the third pub I’ve owned,” she says (the former two were co-owned with business partners). “It had been a pub for a very long time before I took it over. I changed the look from very unattractive ‘70’s décor to what you see today.”
Beth ascribes success in pub managements to three main factors: good food, happy staff and a high quality service. And of course, she also puts some of The Wells’ success – which has come during difficult times for the wider economy – down to its location.
“So far, so good; we are lucky to have loyal local clientele who aren’t short of a bob or two.  Customers here can be fussy and expect value for money, but on the whole they are extremely agreeable and supportive.” The pub’s fare is certainly reasonably priced; with most gastro-pubs these days ramping up their prices, The Wells remains very competitive, especially in light of its distinctly classy ‘restaurant rooms’. Beth describes the food menu simply as ‘eclectic’, adding that the kitchen staff keep things as seasonal as possible. “Our Head Chef is from New Zealand and cooks with simplicity and elegance,” she beams proudly. “His presentation is superb.”
I can understand Beth’s confidence. My evening in The Wells reminded me of another homely London story, Mary Poppins: practically perfect in every way. Having set up home for the evening at a corner table (excellently sited so as to allow me to take in the tasteful furnishings all around), the vibe soon became somewhat festive, as my dinner partner and I, the second dining party of the evening, were quickly joined by several other tables of well-heeled locals. Amid the pleasing buzz of a happy tavern, the menu provided a great range of classic treats – plus an extensive specials board. My partner and I had already spotted the potential of The Wells as a location for indulgent desserts, and the menu didn’t disappoint there either, with crumble, sticky toffee pudding, crème brulee, banoffee pie and a selection of cheeses all among the offerings. I opted in the end for a dark chocolate pot with clotted cream and cantuccini biscuits, which proved utterly delightful. A valiant effort was made to finish the lot, despite being fit to burst. As we ambled off towards the tube station a little later on, we discussed the good fortune of our find: a friendly local that can do everything from the warming evening snifter and the homely Sunday Roast to the cheerful summer cider and fine dining. Dog- and child-friendly too, it ticks all the boxes and then some. If you’re passing by on one of these cold January evenings, you’re well advised to let The Wells shower its hospitality upon you.